19th C Mughal Kundan 23K Gold, Diamond & Gemstones Ring
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19th C Mughal Kundan 23K Gold, Diamond & Gemstones Ring

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India, Mughal, Kundan, ca. 19th century CE. A beautifully handcrafted Kundan ring of a floral form and comprised of 95% gold (equivalent to 22K), an octagonal central garnet surrounded by a gold face delineated with an intricate floral pattern, and 8 precious and semi-precious stones – including diamond, pearl, shell, opal, sapphire, moonstone, a pink stone, and emerald. As is customary for traditional Kundan jewelery, which plays an important role in the bridal wedding trousseau, gems are set with gold foil between the stones and its mount. The word kundan means incredibly refined gold, and indeed highly refined molten gold is used in the process. Also known as Bikaneri or Jaipuri jewelry, Kundan jewelry oftentimes has this bejeweled setting on the front and enameling with vivid colors and designs on the reverse. In this case we see a striking combination of jewel-tone red, green, and white enamel set in the gold to create a marvelous floral design. Size: face measures 1.125″ in diameter (2.9 cm). Opening measures .75″ in diameter (1.9 cm). US ring size 6. Total weight: 14.3 grams.

Condition: Minor losses to green enamel adorning periphery of petals. Trace deposits on some of the gemstones. Old nicks to the red shell. Otherwise very good.

Provenance: private East Coast, USA collection

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